AFRO HAIR IN THE TV, FILM & THEATRE INDUSTRY

We are seeing more representation of afro hair in film, TV, and theatre. With movements like #OscarsSoWhite and films like Black Panther, Hollywood has unquestionably witnessed a huge shift in inclusion and diversity in the last couple of years.

It is no longer an unspoken requirement for black women to have their hair straightened in order to take the lead or supporting roles in the performing arts.

However, despite the recent focus on black talent and the inclusivity that we now see onscreen, there is still an obvious lack of diversity and skill beyond the screen.

For example (and many people do not know this), most black performers have to provide their own hair and makeup in productions, even though these are supposed to come with the gig.

Why is this? Why must black actors provide their own when others are not required to?

Inexperienced stylists

Many black performers describe sitting in the hair-and-makeup chair on an unfamiliar television or movie set as anxiety-inducing. The anxiety stems from the huge probability of being matched with an inexperienced stylist.

The fact is that most stylists on TV, movie and theatre sets are inexperienced with afro hair. They are great stylists in their own rights, but most of them have never touched afro hair in their lives. Performers with afro hair say it is extremely anxious to be placed in someone’s chair without knowing that stylist’s background or work. No one wants an inexperienced stylist fumbling about with their hair. And thus, the anxiety.

Natural afro hair in a niche all its own

Natural afro hair is in a niche all its own. It is not as easy as Caucasian hair to work with, and if you are not properly trained in its care, you just cannot measure up and do a proper job of styling afro hair.

Several performers often speak of directors insisting that their natural hair was fine as it was, the very same way they styled it (whether this was professional or not), simply because the on-set stylist did not have the technical capability to deal with that kind of hair.

The not so great solution

Most black performers show up to sets equipped with clean wigs, just in case. Some show up with their own hair products, including gel, brush and wide-toothed combs. Sometimes, they bring four to five different wigs options to set to make sure that they are covered for each scene. They either do this or take a chance that they will look not properly put-together on screen or stage.

Many actors having to bring their own styling kits to work is not surprising, considering the huge number of stylists in the industry unaccustomed to the peculiarities of afro hair.

Another option black actors resort to is seeking out hair services on their own prior to taping or acting.

Actress Gabourey Sidibe once said that she often asks the director’s permission to consider protective hairstyles such as Senegalese twists or box braids for her character ahead of time. She then gets these installed ahead of filming if the production does not have the budget to hire a black stylist for her.

The way to make a difference

The way black performers solve the problem of the lack of diversity in hair styling is not proper. They are having to solve problems they shouldn’t have to, when they should be afforded the same ease that their Caucasian counterparts are afforded.

The few times black performers have an easy time with their hairstyling and makeup on set is when other black people are in leadership roles. When a set has a black director, they open doors for other talented black individuals to work and make important set decisions, including who styles the hair of black actors and actresses.

However, there’s still a long way to go in diversifying talent on- and off-screen. Currently, only 10 per cent of film directors are people of colour. And only about 14 per cent of 10 lead actors in films are people of colour.

More diversity needed

Yes, we are seeing more people of colour in leading roles and holding sensitive positions in TV, theatre and film. This is absolutely fantastic.

However, this number does not yet correlate with the diversity in the hairstylist departments. There is a need for more diversity in hair (and makeup) departments on sets.

There is a need for more black hairstylists and makeup artists on sets to cater to the peculiar needs of the black person. Beyond that, all hairstylists and makeup artists should be able to work with all kinds of hair and skin tone.

There must be better education for all hairstylists and makeup artists. We need to do better.