AFRO HAIR TEXTURES: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

It is somewhat typical for someone going natural for the first time to be obsessed with finding out what their hair texture/type is. It is also somewhat typical to be confounded by the preponderance of natural hair terms. What is 3b? And what exactly is 4c? And what has that got to do with your hair?

Well, everyone has a certain hair texture, and the most effective way to classify hair texture is to use a mixture of numbers and letters to do so.

*This topic is covered more extensively in our Afro Curly Hair Courses.

Hair is a little bit more complicated than being simply straight or curly. It can be straight, wavy, curly or coily. It can also be a combination of types.

Straight hair is pretty straightforward because it is straight. Wavy hair is also not so hard to pinpoint; it has a very loose S curl pattern.

Curly hair also has an S curl pattern, only that it’s tighter than wavy hair, looking a lot like corkscrews. On the latter end of the spectrum, coily hair has curls so tight that they look like coils; hence the name, coily hair.

All we have discussed so far is on the straight and narrow. Things start to get complicated when trying to figure out your specific hair category. Is it 3c or 4a or 4b?

It is important to state at this point that the purpose of knowing your hair texture is not to stress about it but to understand your hair better so you can take proper care of it. I am, therefore, telling you to relax and not to get too caught up in the numbers.

You’re doing amazing already if you can tell whether your hair is wavy, curly or coily.

In this article, we will simplify things a little but for you by defining some hair textures, concentrating on variations of the afro textured hair, which includes afro-textured hair itself, curly hair, mixed textured hair, and mixed hair.

Afro-textured hair

Afro-textured hair or kinky hair (also coily hair) is the hair texture found in most Africans, with each strand of hair growing in a tiny, angle-like helix shape. When contrasted with straight, wavy or curly hair, afro-textured hair appears much denser. The coils in afro hair resemble tight corkscrews.

One characteristics of afro/coily hair is that it is more voluminous than curly or wavy hair. This is because of its tighter curl pattern. One other thing about afro-textured hair is that it grows out and not down.

This tightly coiled hair is extremely fine and fragile and is prone to major shrinkage. While it grows at the same rate as other hair types, the fact that it shrinks so much makes it look like it lacks length.

Kinky hair is the driest hair type and often feels wiry, so it breaks more than other textures if not treated properly.

Now, on to the numbers that get a lot of people confounded.

We have 4a, 4b, and 4c kinky hair types. 4a features tightly coiled lowercase “s” curls and a curl circumference of a standard pencil. For 4b, curls appear dense and tightly coiled, and the visible ‘s’ and ‘z’ shaped patterns may have a fluffy appearance. 4c has tight-zagged kinky coily strands, and is the most densely packed hair type. The coils in 4c are similar to a 4b, but with more shrinkage and less definition.

Curly hair

Curly hair can be anything from loose, light loops to springy, tight corkscrews. Curly hair has some sheen but is prone to frizz.

As for type 3A, the hair tends to be shiny with loose, large curls with a diameter around the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk. Type 3Bs have springy ringlets with a similar circumference to that of a Sharpie marker.

Type 3C curls have tight corkscrews ranging in circumference from a straw to a pencil, giving way to lots of natural volume.

It bears repeating that frizziness is common with the curly hair type.

Mixed textured hair

Mixed textured hair is hair that is more than one curl pattern. This means that you might have loose curls at the front of your head with a much curlier pattern at the back, instead of having just curly hair.

Complex as this may sound, mixed textured hair (also called multi-textured hair) is actually pretty common.

And even though caring for mixed textured hair may sound like an invitation to frustration, keeping this kind of hair healthy is not so difficult.

Mixed hair

This is not the same thing as multi textured hair, but another kettle of fish entirely. Instead, mixed hair (the same thing as mixed-race hair) is a hair type unique to individuals who are of mixed racial heritage.

When we hear the word ‘mixed-race hair,’ we have the image of full-bodied curls, somewhere between afro and wavy-textured. However, a combination of different heritages can lead to a wide range of hair types that are unique in and of themselves.

While there are a plethora of hair textures in persons of mixed heritage, mixed-race hair often leans more towards the afro than the straight side of the divide. We don’t exactly understand why; it’s just the way it is.

Mixed hair does not break as often as African hair, and it’s more elastic and stronger. This is because it has more para-cortical cells than ortho-cortical cells, and also has a higher level of cell membrane complex, which holds the cortical cells in place. This gives the hair an added layer of resistance to manipulation.

Finally, mixed hair has more cuticle layers than African hair, laying over the ortho-cortical cells and shielding the hair better from external damage.

The difference

Our in-depth look at the different hair textures already makes their differences obvious, but we will do a quick recap here.

Afro textured hair is found mainly in people of African descent and is the coiliest and kinkiest of all hair types. It is dense and fragile and often looks shorter than others because of the shrinkage that it is prone to.

Curly hair is not as dense as afro-textured hair, ranging from loose, light loops to springy, tight corkscrews.

Mixed textured hair has more than one curl pattern, meaning that you might have loose curls at the front of your head with a much curlier pattern at the back, instead of having just curly hair.

Mixed hair is a hair type unique to individuals of mixed racial heritage, does not break as often as African hair and is more elastic and stronger.

Caring for your hair type, whatever hair type it is

Wash regularly

This way, you are sure that your hair and scalp are free of excess oil and dirt. However, how often you wash your hair will be determined by your hair type and your personal preferences. For very dry hair, washing is advised up to two times a week, while washing an oily scalp on alternate days is a good idea.

Go chemical-free

While you can do nothing about the environmental factors that buffet your hair, you do have some control over what products go into your hair and scalp. For best hair results, it is better to go chemical free, especially when it comes to your shampoo. The more natural your shampoo and your conditioner, the better for you. So, go sulfate and parabens free.

Air dry your hair

Using a blow dryer is much faster, but it is important to know that too much heat is not good for your hair, no matter the type. Towel drying or air drying after shampooing is the best way to go. In fact, air drying is best. If you want to use a towel, be gentle instead of harsh. You may also want to replace the towel with a microfibre T shirt. It does the same job but without the harshness.

Properly oil your hair

Oiling and massaging and other pre-shampoo treatments improve the scalp’s blood circulation, and by so doing, nourish the hair and boosts shine. Oiling and massaging also repair split ends, restore moisture content, and speed up hair growth. And the great thing is that there is a preponderance of oils you can use, ranging from coconut oil to castor oil, olive oil, almond oil, and the likes. As much as you can, avoid using mineral oil.

Drink lots and lots of water

You need both external hydration and internal hydration. Use oils and hydrating hair care products, but go beyond that. Also, make sure that you drink at least 3 litres of water every day to facilitate good hair health.

Eat healthily

You were expecting this, weren’t you? As long as the article is about hair care and skincare, of course there will always be the bit about eating healthy. Your hair is made of amino acids and proteins, and requires the right nutrition to maintain itself and grow well. Ensure that you get enough sweet potatoes, green leafy vegetables, nuts, fish, berries, and eggs.

Use a wide-toothed comb

No matter your hair type, don’t yank and pull at it. Always use a wide toothed comb, as it passes more easily through your hair than smaller combs. Your knots and tangles answer better to a wide toothed comb than a smaller comb.

Trim regularly

Trimming hair every one and a half months to two months will help you get rid of the split ends formed from damage due to stress, pollution, heat styling, and so on. While trimming your hair does not make the hair grow faster magically, it does ensure that your hair is healthy.

Protect your hair

Harsh sunlight damages much more than skin. It also damages hair, stripping the hair of moisture and making it brittle and dry over time. It is thus, important, to use umbrellas and hats and other protective hair coverings when you step out into the hot, hot sunshine.

When swimming, you also want to make sure that you protect your hair with a cap, as chlorinated water is bad for your hair.

What to avoid

Hot showers: It strips your scalp of its natural oils, leaving the hair flaky and dry.

Stress: Stress leads to hair fall and unhealthy hair. Do your best to live a stress-free life.

Chemicals: Use chemicals sparingly, if at all. Never forget that chemicals from perming, dying, and other hair treatments affect the hair follicles, disrupting hair growth as well as causing hair fall.

Saltwater: Saltwater irritates the scalp, damages your hair cuticle, and tangles your hair. So, avoid swimming in chlorinated water.

In conclusion

Whatever your hair type is, you need to treat it like a baby. Take good care of it because neglecting to do so will cause it to stop growing after a while.

Not taking care of your hair can also cause you to experience dullness, dryness, dandruff and hair fall. You don’t want that.

Take care of your hair, and it will reward you with beautiful, shiny locks. Stay beautiful, Stay you.