HOW THE SMOKE POINT OF OILS AFFECT HAIR

Every kind of oil, no matter its type, has a smoke point. It doesn’t matter if the oil is a nut oil, vegetable oil, refined oil, virgin oil, organic oil or processed oil.

By definition, smoke point is the temperature at which a specific oil stops glistening and starts to smoke and burn instead. When oil gets to this point, what you get is an acrid, burnt smell as a result of the compounds in the oil breaking because of the high heat.

What does it have to do with your hair?

Now, most people with natural hair know that heat protectants lessen the damage done to their hair by heat, whether this heat is used in the form of blow drying, flat ironing or curling.

Oil is often the number one choice in heat protectants, and so we apply oil to natural hair before applying heat. Some stylists even swear that protecting hair this way negates (not just reduces) any damage from heat whole giving the hair a beautiful shine and glow.

This is why the smoking point of oil has everything to do with your hair; you don’t want to apply heat past the smoking point of the oil you have coated your hair with. When they go past their smoking points, oils may emit a large quantity of free radicals as well as acrolein, a substance that increases the risk of cancer.

Also, oil that has gone past its smoking point gets closer to its flash point, thus producing ignitable gases. No one wants burnt hair, so it is good to know the smoking point of the oil you are using.

Common oils and their smoking points

It is important to note that the smoke point of a specific oil will vary based on its manufacturing, makeup and natural or refined quality.

However, this is a good guide to the general smoke point of some common oils:

• Unrefined sunflower oil 107°C

• Extra light olive oil 242°C

• Extra virgin olive oil 160°C

• Unrefined coconut oil 177°C

• Macadamia nut oil 199°C

• Avocado oil 271°C

• Grapeseed oil 216°C

• Virgin olive oil 216°C

• Almond oil 221°C

• Hemp oil 165°C

• Jojoba oil 195°C

• Shea Butter 233°C

• Extra Virgin Argan Oil 171°C

• Refined castor oil 200°C

Choosing an oil

You can be tempted to just pick up and use whatever kind oil you have handy as a heat protectant. It is, however, important to note that only certain natural oils will do for full heat protection. These natural oils have a smoke point that is at least 170°C or higher. This is because most heat tools have heat points between 180 and 215 degrees Celsius.

So, go for argan oil, coconut oil, Shea butter, grape seed oil, almond oil, and avocado oil.

Conclusion

It is important to note that there are more factors to consider in using a natural oil as your heat protectant than its smoke point.

It is also important to incorporate ingredients that fight moisture depletion when you use heat.

If you are using an oil as a heat protectant, make sure that you also apply a lightweight leave-in conditioner or a moisturiser; as a pure oil alone has a tendency to leave hair dry and fragile.

So stay safe, stay beautiful.