THE CURLY GIRL METHOD

If you have the kind of hair that comes in untameable curls, or hair that frizzes up unmanageably, or hair that wants to go in the direction that it wants to, the curly girl (CG) method may just be the way out of your rut.

The brainchild of a woman called Loraine Massey, the curly girl method is a very specific method of hair care that helps people discover their hair’s true texture and to maximise their natural curls and waves. The curly girl method basically retrains us on what our hair really needs and our hair to fall into its naturally curl pattern.

The curly girl method has been reviewed severally by many hair experts and hairdressers, and it has been proven as a natural hair routine that brings out the best in everyone’s curls. The method advocates trading out harmful habits for a healthy curly hair regimen, and choosing nourishing products without parabens, silicones, and sulphates.

So, who is this for?

The curly girl method was specifically created for people with curly or wavy hair who have had trouble managing their hair and just want to set their curly hair free and see it thrive without further damaging it with harmful hair care ingredients and heat tools. Once they start following this method, most people claim that their flat or very loose waves and curls become fuller and much more defined.

It is, however, important to state that the curly girl method has been adopted and is adoptable by people (not necessarily with curly hair) who want to truly dedicate their energy to changing their bad hair habits forever.

So, what does it entail?

The curly girl method will require you to follow some basic guidelines, including removing harmful ingredients and hair products from your hair care regime, and then discovering your curl type and hair characteristics. It requires you to be willing and patient to learn which nutrients your hair needs to thrive.

So, let’s go through some basic steps of the curly girl method.

Step 1: What are your hair characteristics and curl type?

You will have to do some tests to determine your unique hair characteristics in order to determine the hair products and methods that are best for you. You need to learn about and discover what your hair type, hair thickness and density, elasticity and porosity are.

We have done several articles on these topics in the past, but I will touch briefly on some of these once again.

For hair characteristics, the Andre Walker hair typing system is one of the best known.

Type 1 is straight hair, but we have Type 1A, Type 1B, and Type 1C. While Type 1A hair is usually very thin, fine, and is often soft with a noticeable shine, Type 1B hair has more body than Type 1A hair and is medium-textured. Type 1C hair is a little coarser than Type 1A and 1C, even though it is also straight. It is a little more resistant to curly styling.

Type 2 is wavy hair that isn’t overly oily or very dry. It is the bridge between Type 1 and Type 3 hair. It is also divided into three subdivisions. The first, Type 2A hair is fine, thin, and comparably easier to style because it can easily be curled. Characteristically, Type 2B hair has waves that are more likely to adhere to the shape of the head. Meanwhile, Type 2C hair is fairly coarse and frizzes easily.

Type 3 is curly hair that has a definite “S” shaped curl pattern. This particular hair type is not as shiny as wavy or straight hair because the cuticle doesn’t lay flat. This hair type is divided into two further types. Type 3A hair has loose curls, while Type 3B hair has a fair amount of curls that ranges from bouncy ringlets to tight corkscrews.

Type 4 is tightly curled hair, popularly called kinky hair. It is full of tight coils, extremely wiry and very fragile. While appearing coarse, this hair is actually several thin hair strands packed densely together. This is the type of hair that is most commonly found in black people. This hair type is further divided into two subgroups. Type 4A hair has tight coils that have “S” patterns when stretched, very much like Type 3 hair. As for Type 4B hair, there is a less defined pattern of curls and the hair looks more like a “Z” because the hair bends at very sharp angles.

In the simplest of terms, hair porosity has to with the ability of your hair to absorb and retain moisture, and how well moisture and oils pass in and out of your hair cuticles. Let’s keep in mind that the cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair.

Step 2: Choose the products that are best for your hair

Now that you know what your hair characteristics are, the next thing to do is to determine the ingredients and nutrients that are best for your hair and the ones you need to avoid.

Step 3: Always start with that final wash

It is important to begin the curly girl method with a clean slate, and this is why it is important to do what we call a final wash before you begin. This means that you will need to wash your hair one final time with a shampoo that has sulphates. Ensure that this shampoo contains sulphate but does not contain silicones. The idea is to get the build-up of silicones out of your hair. It is important to get rid of the dirt in your hair that has accumulated there over time before you begin a new hair diet. Sulphate is a very aggressive product and because your final wash should definitely include a sulphate-based shampoo, it is possible that your hair dries out. It is, therefore, important to make sure that your moisturise and nourish your hair afterwards by using a hair mask or deep conditioner.

Step 4: Detangle in the shower

One thing that the curly girl method teaches is that the best time to detangle is when you are in the shower and your hair is loaded with conditioner. The only thing you need to do this is your fingertips, but you can use a wet brush or a wide-tooth comb if you so choose. You may also want to try a detangler. Detanglers are hair products that give hair more slip and then make it easier to detangle.

Step 5: Co-Washing

Co-washing is the process of using conditioner to wash and cleanse your hair. It helps to cleanse the hair and remove build up without the use of harsh ingredients such as parabens or sulphates which are typically used in shampoos. Regular shampoos contain aggressive cleansers that allow them clean the hair thoroughly. They do so good a job of this that they also wash away the natural oils from your hair, thus altering your natural hair texture.

One you do your final wash, it is important that you no longer wash your hair with a sulphate-based shampoo, and do a co-wash instead. This is what the original developer of the curly girl method recommends. If you want to, however, you can use cleaning creams and CG-proof clarifying shampoos.

A co-wash is much gentler and milder for your hair and scalp. It is, however, important to note that it will take your hair time to get used to this method. To this end, you may have greasy hair at the very beginning of your CG method journey. But as you go on, the greasiness will stop.

Step 6: It is important to deep condition

Deep conditioning is an important part of the CG hair routine. Deep conditioning is similar to using a hair mask, as it is a nutritious, extra concentrated conditioning treatment that reaches deeper into the hair. It is a necessary treatment to restore dry and damaged hair. Curls are usually drier than straight hair and needs more hydration because of this. This is what deep conditioners do, and will get you on your way to healthy, beautiful, and shiny hair.

Step 7: Styling your curls

If you are a follower of the CG method steps, styling should take place only one to two times a week or however often you wash your hair. You can refresh your curls by spraying it with water and a little leave-in conditioner in between washdays.

Step 8: Air dry your curls

It is best to air dry curly hair. After washing and before you air dry, gently tie your hair in a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt and let it sit for about fifteen minutes. This technique is called plopping, and it helps to dry hair without damaging it. It also leads to less frizz, helps air dry faster, and provides more definition.

You can begin the curly girl method right now

The curly girl method is most certainly a commitment, so you have to be ready for it. I strongly advise joining a group of likeminded curly girl method enthusiasts. You can find groups of Facebook, YouTube and all other social media outlets. Then, go about learning the dos and don’ts of the method. Here are some of the condensed dos and don’ts.

Don’ts

Don’t use heat styling tools

Don’t use any products containing sulphates

Limit usage of brushes and combs

Don’t wash your hair too often

Don’t use terrycloth towels

Don’t colour, bleach, or dye your hair too often

Don’t use shampoo

Don’t use anything containing silicones, fragrance, or alcohol

Don’t use non-water soluble formulas.

Do’s

Use conditioners and co-washes with gentler cleansing ingredients like decyl polyglucose

Use products with proteins like wheat and rich emollients like shea butter

Use styling gel with ingredients like PVP to give your hair some bounce.

Adjust the style to fit your lifestyle

Yes, the CG method yields incredible results. It is, however, important to realise that there is no one solution fits all in this world. This is why I am fully in support of adjusting the CG guidelines to fit in with your preferences, lifestyle, and your unique hair characteristics. Find out what works best for you.

In fact, it will interest you to find out that not everyone fully follows the curly girl method. Many use the method as the basis for their routine, but deviate as it suits them. This is why there are various variations to this method. We have the lazy girl method, wavy girl method, eco curly girl, and the coily girl method.

So go ahead, find what works for you.

How soon will you start seeing results?

How soon you start seeing results depend entirely on your hair, but it is important to give yourself time. Patience is a virtue that cannot be preached enough, and you will need patience on this journey. Give yourself at least three months at first to really see if the CG method works for you. You may want to take progress photos along the way to see just how far your hair has come.

Be persistent and keep tweaking what works and what doesn’t. You will eventually get there. See you on the other side of beautiful.